Un paseo con los Cafecletos

One weekend there was a coffee fair in Parque Juarez with various booths selling coffee bean necklaces, coffee-flavoured ice cream, and many varieties of coffee itself. I noticed one booth that seemed out-of-place, as it displayed bicycles and posters about cyclists' rights in the city of Xalapa. I went over and began talking the man tending the booth, and had soon committed myself a bike ride the following Sunday.

The booth represented a group called "Cafecletos" - and the only reason I can see for the group's presence the fair is in the use of the word "Café" in the title. The group has nothing to do with coffee.

The following Sunday I showed up for the bike ride at 10:00 am. One of the coordinators lent me his bike, as he was riding a tandem with his young daughter. Soon a group of nearly 30 cyclists had assembled, and one of the coordinators reviewed the rules: listen to the megaphone, don't change lanes, and ride two-by-two at all times.


Yes, megaphone. One of the bikes was newly equipped with a megaphone, which a coordinator at the end of the line used to direct the group into various lanes. When he wasn't directing the group, he was admonishing nearby motorists to respect the rights of the cyclist according to municipal bylaw. When we stopped at a red light, various other coordinators would distribute flyers about developing a pedestrian and cyclist culture in Xalapa.


So as it turns out, I was participating in a sort of political demonstration to challenge the prevalence of cars and a car culture in Xalapa. Apparently cyclists experience active rejection on the streets of Xalapa - a motorist might go out of his or her way to put a cyclist in danger, as if to say - "you have no right to be here." It is true that pedestrians never have the right of way - even on a green light, I have to cede to cars turning left and right before crossing the road.

The group is also working with the municipal and state governments to promote and protect cycling in Xalapa. While they are a long way from bike lanes, it was encouraging to see the number of people who came out on Sunday. I have done some cycling in Toronto, and so can identify with those who are interested in an urban cycling culture. In fact, the coordinators asked me to provide them with as much material as possible on the movements in Toronto so they could connect with and learn from others with similar goals.